adventure


This post is the second installment in the Holy Land series of our 2014 trip. Fresh off the plane, we got out of the airport with very little fanfare. An interesting tidbit about passport stamps in Israel—they gave us a small slip of paper that had our photo on it—a visa stamp that was not a permanent stamp in the passport. I’m thinking that’s to avoid complications for travelers who want to visit countries not so pro-Israel. Upon exiting the concourse, I saw a huge mezuzah adorning the wall. (A mezuzah is a blessing that is wrapped in a case—something you’ll see on the doors of Jewish homes and businesses.) Anyhoo, we were met by our guide and whisked off to stretch our legs in the ancient city of Jaffa.

First Stop: Jaffa

Jaffa is a 4,000 year old town on the outskirts of Tel Aviv, which is only about 100 years old. In Israel, our guide says that in order to be considered old, a building, ruin, or relic must be about 1,000 years old or more. Several hundred years is considered new.

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Andromeda’s rocks in Jaffa.

We walked to the top of a Tel, a man-made hill, and saw layers of excavation revealing the remnants of cultures from thousands of years ago. Before the modern age where we demolish and remove structures, people established towns by building on top of the ruins of previous inhabitants. This created layers of history that we now explore and learn from.

Jaffe is on the coast of the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. As we looked out over a marina, our guide told us the story of Andromeda and Perseus—the rocks Andromeda was placed on as a sacrifice (and that represent her) are said to be located off the shore near this little marina.

The Adventure of the Israeli Meal

After walking through a lovely artistic area, we sat down for our first meal. The owner placed a number of small bowls of various items on our table. Evidently in Israel, traditionally you are given a salad which is comprised of a number of bowls filled with delicious treats such as carrots, potatoes, eggplant, corn, humus, and baba ganush (among other dishes). The baba ganush was yummy and so were the flatbread pitas they brought us. We ordered some falafel and enjoyed the outside café with our new feline friends who came by for handouts. LOTS of cats run around wild in Israel. People feed them scraps and they earn their keep by keeping the rodents away.

Shwarma in the Old City.

Shwarma in the Old City.

Throughout our stay we tried a number of dishes we weren’t quite sure about that turned out to be delicious. A staple over there is a sandwich called a Shawarma—turkey that is cooked in lamb’s fat or oil, salad items, and humus wrapped in a big pita. YUM! On our first night, mom and I went exploring and sat down for a meal where the language barrier was a challenge. So we tried some soup called Kubu which turned out to be a delicious stew. We identified some meat and beets and decided it deserved two thumbs up.

Home Away from Home

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The Avissar House in Yemin Moshe.

Our home in Jerusalem for the next few days was an apartment, the Avissar House, located just a few minutes walk from the Jaffa Gate. It had a little terrace on the roof where I spent several wonderful nights under the stars looking across the road at the walls of the Old City and listening to the sounds of the night—a concert, some young people laughing, dogs, and the breezes through the pines around the neighborhood. Our landlord Yoseph was a kind gentlemen and we loved our accommodations nestled in a very cute pedestrian cobble-stoned street below the Montefiore Windmill in Yemin Moshe. Once we got settled and had a nice walk through the neighborhood to explore, we prepared for the day ahead, and with that we’ll explore the Old City of Jerusalem in the next post.

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The Yemin Moshe neighborhood–our apartment was below the windmill. This is a view from the Jaffa Gate.

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The view from Avissar House. The building across the road is David’s tomb and the “location” of the last supper.

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View from our terrace. The Jaffa Gate and walls of the Old City in Jerusalem.

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The Italians could take a lesson from the Jews. This is a typical meal–all the little “salad” bowls go with all the meals.

IMG_9833 The street sign in the artistic area displayed zodiac signs on pretty tiles.

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The street sign in the artistic area displayed zodiac signs on pretty tiles.

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Visiting the Holy Land is a dream for many people throughout the world. Jews, Christians, and Muslims all consider this land to be the center of our religious and historical past. But visiting this place has its risks. Growing up I never really thought it would be possible with all the fighting, but over the past few years, as more people I know went there, my parents and I thought it would be a good time to go.

And go we did, just last week. Our timing was fortuitous. Throughout our visit, our Jewish guide kept asking us if we felt safe and asking us to be ambassadors back home, “You can tell everyone that it’s safe—we all get along and the news outlets exaggerate.” At first we agreed. But we did a little minor eye rolling when on our last day she said it again and we silently wondered if she had watched the news the night before. The latest battles between Hamas and Israel were heating up with several deaths of boys on both sides. In the week that we’ve been home, the news outlets are reporting that tanks are rolling and missiles are being launched.

Although that seems scary and may keep people from traveling there, the sad fact is, there were dozens of people (at least) killed by gunfire on the streets in our own backyards just over the weekend. So, perspective is in order. We live in a fallen world and you have to make choices whether or not to get out and see the world the way it is.

Overall, the trip was great. There were some instances where it was next to impossible to envision the way the landscape was 2,000 or more years ago. But I think in general what I took away was the reality of the hard terrain that Jesus and his disciples (and the ancient people of the land) traversed. Lots of hills, vast deserts, and hard rocks added some serious damage to my already bad knees. But we had it easy with our air conditioned rooms, cars, restaurants with plenty to eat, and time to leisurely enjoy the days. When I think of Jesus walking up the steep slopes with his friends in 114 degree heat, I can only thank Him once again for his sacrifice and His love for us.

The land has played host to different cultures for many thousands of years. Its history can be seen in deep layers of tells (man-made hills) across the country. Much of it has yet to be unearthed but so much has been discovered already that we can now see how our ancestors lived. But more on that later.

I will be writing about the details of our trip, starting in Jaffa, a 4,000 year old city, then on to Jerusalem’s old city, to the desert heat at Masada and the Dead Sea, up to the gorgeous Sea of Galilee, and ending in Tel Aviv with a nice swim in the Mediterranean. For now, a few pictures to get started.

Genesis 13:17

“Arise, walk about the land through its length and breadth; for I will give it to you.”

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Coming to the end of our wonderful safari, we flew to our last stop, the tent hotel in the Masai Mara. Roughing it is not how I would describe these gorgeous canvas covered hotel rooms along the Mara River. Once again, getting there was via a little air strip and as we arrived, the Masai had set up a “duty free shop” selling spears and other chotchkies. I kept my tent flaps wide open all during the first night, listening to the animals—including the hippos who were floating by in the river below.

The next day I spotted what looked like a young/baby crocodile. It was actually a massive monitor lizard, several feet long. It freaked me out and after explaining that my tent flaps were open all night and that kind of creature was roaming about, Eric said I shouldn’t have kept them open. I guess the sleeping outside thing didn’t apply to the Mara Safari club tent camp. Next night I was zipped up tight!

Distract the Rhinos!

Our game drive in the Masai Mara was one of the best of the trip. Yes, the bar was raised once again. Eric had the group drive up a mountain side toward a ranger station where we got to see two white Rhinos up close and in person.

We had to be quiet so as not to disturb the female. She couldn’t see us (they can’t see very well) but she could sense us and if she knew we were close, she might not like that. You probably haven’t been next to a rhino before so trust me, you want them to be happy and distracted or not see you at all. And that is exactly what the rangers did to the male rhino so we could get up close and touch him and take a photo. I won’t go into details but it was a happy ending for Mr. Rhino and we left our tips in the rhino tip box for the hard working ranger.

Back down on the plains, our driver Abdi, who I dubbed, Happy Abdi, was awesome. He knew where a number of animals hung out so he took us over the a pride of lions and their cubs. We were the first to arrive so got some excellent shots and great views of the little guys nursing and playing. The mamas got tired and would roar and show their teeth—frightening but it didn’t scare the cubs too much—they just moved on to the next set of nipples to try out auntie and her sister. I dubbed them the itteh bitteh African kitteh committee (a line taken from LOLcats). One of the mom’s sneezed which made us laugh—her response was to give us a “look” and then settle back down again. Glad she wasn’t up for some whooping.

Moving on, Abdi drove us over to where a Cheetah was hanging out under a tree. He was getting up from his day of napping and stretched and yawned (which looked frightening in the photo I snapped). This guy just walked around our jeep and got so close we could have touched finger to paw if I was feeling stupid enough—which I was not.

More giraffes, buffalo, wildebeest, a Secretariat bird, and more dotted the landscape on our way back to the tent camp for the evening. We needed a good rest for the seriously early wake up call the next and final morning.

Up Up and Away

Before the sun was up—a looooong time before—we got in our jeeps and drove out to the bush where the balloons awaited us. It was freezing at that time and the wind was up so we had to wait before getting started. The process for getting into the basket was such…they tipped the basket on its side and one by one we climbed in and sat on our backs with legs up—like the astronauts do on lift off. The basket is divided into five parts—the middle for the captain, and two compartments on each side that hold 3-4 people each. I held onto my hat, closed my eyes, and pressed my ears shut while they inflated the balloon. A few peeks told me this was not something I wanted to witness—loud blowing fans, fire spewing out of the machine in the middle—yeah, just tell me when we’re up. And then poof! we were up!

What a ride! We flew low for the most part—an occasional lift into higher elevations had my dad gripping the sides with white knuckles. I was somewhat okay with the whole thing because the balloon drifted very slowly down—no hard crashes were in store and I felt pretty secure inside of it. Not that I wanted to go any higher though. Along the way, the fire blowing into the balloon scared the bajeesis out of the animals who all fled as we approached. Kind of cool to see them from above. We also saw a number of Masai bomas and people waving at us from below.

The touchdown was very smooth and our drivers met up with us to take us over to our champagne breakfast they had set up in the middle of the Masai Mara. Before we stopped, we saw a big buffalo carcass. The vultures were all hanging out and started to leave–one by one like planes taking off—as we approached. The hyenas also took off—with a leg of course—can’t leave good food behind! This was all just yards from where breakfast was being set up.

As we walked around the breakfast site, I noticed a tremendous amount of poo. Maybe this was a hot spot for taking their morning coffee breaks or something, but you could not walk two steps without hitting a pile of poo. It really amazed me as I did a 360 turn and saw miles and miles of grass lands stretched out before me. Was there really that much poo out there?

After a bumpy ride back we relaxed by the pool, watched the hippos swim and snort and then got back on the road, up the mountain for a beautiful evening of wine and treats by a big bonfire as we watched the sun set over the Masai Mara. A truly exhilarating site to see. Again, Tauck knows how to treat their guests and create exceptional experiences.

Off to Nairobi and the first leg of the trip home.

As we climbed aboard a plane with the smallest seats in the world for a quick (thankfully) trip back to Nairobi, we said goodbye to the animals, the Masai people, and our jeeps. We flew in over a sad steel-lined ghetto where about a million people live cramped in poverty. The traffic in Nairobi is similar to D.C. so I felt at home and was entertained by the vendors. See they have a great system going on over there. The police hold up traffic at the roundabouts (causing more congestion) to give the street vendors time to run up and down the line of cars. Once they’ve done a circuit, the cops let that line go and the process starts over again with a new set of potential customers. I didn’t see anything I was really interested in—the hello kitty dolls and Elvis Presley photos seemed less than authentically African so I passed. After a brief rest in the hotel we were off again to the airport where we arrived precisely at 7:59 when Eric said we would. Man he was good!

Final Thoughts

Go. Save your pennies and go. Africa is so amazing and you’ll never experience anything like it anywhere else. The people were lovely, wore beautiful clothes, and even though most were dirt poor, seemed content with their lives. The animals were extraordinary—seeing them in their environment up close was so different than any zoo experience. The vast and endless sky—that included the Southern Cross which I got to see for the first time—was breathtaking. Over and over again I just found myself saying “Thank You God for your beautiful earth, for letting me experience this, and for all Your blessings!”

Tauck Tours and our guide, Eric, were exceptional as usual. Our fellow travelers were fun and added much delight to our trip. The hotels were top of the line and the service was beyond expectations.

Throughout our trip we had some laughs about the toilets. Many were heard to say as they were coming out of a facility, “Well now I can finish writing my book about toilets.” In some places where you would think an old outhouse would be a treat if you could get it, you’d find a clean, full toilet with flushing water and paper. And then you could drive an hour later and stop somewhere more civilized and find a closet with just a hole in the ground. Yup, I tried that just to say I did. I worked my muscles good on that one! In any case, the toilet situation was as diverse as the animal species and you never knew what you were going to get.

The trip over and back was long. I don’t love flying and am extremely uncomfortable in planes (big butt and long legs with arthritis make sitting on them very painful). But even with that and the root canal pain I had the first several days, it was completely worth it. I’ve been culling through the couple thousand photos I took, trying to pull just a few out to share—it’s so hard when you’ve had the experience of your life.

Well, happy anniversary mom and dad. We lived our dream trip and can continue to dream about it for a long time to come!

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The wonderful African Safari continues with a nice stay at the Mt. Kenya Safari Club. During the few days we were there we went out to Nanyuki, the town nearby and did a game drive.

Ol Pejeta and the Chimp Orphans

We started off the first morning on the look-out for the final animal on the Big 5 list, the Rhino. We spotted some elephants and the normal characters—gazelles, baboons, wildebeest and more. Then we were treated to a beautiful site—the reticulated giraffe. This giraffe has different markings than the ones we had been seeing and they looked as though they were wearing socks.

A little while later, as we drove through the Ol Pejeta Conservancy we made a stop at the Chimpanzee sanctuary. Guides took us around the area to view a few of the chimps who gave us a bit of a show. One had a bad attitude and threw sticks at us—but seeing how these guys were rescued from a life of slavery and abuse, I think some patience and forgiveness was in order.

On we went searching for the Rhino who had so far been hiding way off the beaten path, when suddenly we saw several of them hanging out with some Grevy Zebras. These were called “white” rhinos and not because of their color. The name “white” was yet another mistake stemming from those German accents. They were calling the rhinos “wide” because of the shape of their mouths.

The grevy zebras were also a new site for us. These zebra’s had slightly different stripes—narrower—and their stomachs were white. This area was the only place we saw this kind of zebra.

Our final stop was at the big equator sign. We got our photo op and straddled the line, so now I can say I stood on the equator and at one point was standing on both the northern and southern hemispheres. It may have been cooler than it sounds—call me a geek, I don’t care,—it was cool.

Spinners and Weavers

The next day we drove through Nanyuki (what a fun name) to the spinners and weavers guild. More than 140 women who are widowed or come from a bad domestic situation have found employment through the Nanyuki Spinners and Weavers. Their children have a place to go while they are working and there is a girl’s school there as well. This organization has grown quite a bit over the years. We got a tour of the areas where they were spinning and weaving wool into beautiful rugs, shawls, and place mats. They grow the plants that are used for the dyes, they have sheep on site that provide the wool, and every step of the process is controlled through the guild. Our group donated some cash (in addition to the stuff I bought that was made there) so they could buy a new computer and step up their online sales.

The Children’s Rescue Center

Our final stop of the day was a heartbreaking treat. We visited a children’s rescue center. It’s not an orphanage per say but some of the children were in fact orphans. The adults that work there take care of the kids who they have rescued from abandonment, abuse, and other sad situations. They work with the families to rehabilitate the parents and kids so that the children can be returned to the families. I was astounded to hear that—who can possibly be rehabilitated after abandoning their children on the side of a road to fend for themselves? This is one of those things that culturally is hard to understand. What I do know is that the children were absolutely sweet and full of smiles.

Our tour director, Eric, had the kids hold up letters that spelled out Happy Anniversary Greg and Carol. It was so sweet I cried. After that he gave them noise makers and scoops of ice cream. The fun continued with a game of soccer (Eric brought along a new soccer ball as well). Once again we had fun taking pictures with the kids and then got big hugs before we had to leave.

Africa was a showcase of God’s artwork—through the animals, the grand scale of land, sky, mountains, and desert and also in the people. These people are really poor and many work what we would consider boring, unskilled jobs. But I saw a lot of contented and happy people—especially the kids. Now maybe some of that was the special occasion of having tourists come by with treats, but all in all I would say for sure I am blessed and am finding it hard to hear anyone in our country (with the exception of the truly poor and homeless) complain about not having enough material things or money. I’m not saying that we can’t want things or have things, but I just have a different perspective of needs vs. wants.

An Upscale BBQ in the Bush

When Tauck Tours says we are having a BBQ for dinner, you should raise your expectations. But seriously, whatever they deliver will be much cooler than what you were thinking. Our last night at the Safari Club was topped off by a wonderful dinner under a tent on the Conservancy along a flowing creek. Bonfires and lanterns lit the way to our tables and free booze flowed. That last part is what probably lead to the singing and animal imitations that followed. We had a wonderful guitar player who played everything from the Beetles and Kenny Rogers to Neil Diamond and the Lion King. One fun family we were traveling with entertained the group with imitations of the various animals (ostrich, zebra, lion, and so forth) that we saw on our journey. Hilarious. And I’m not saying that because of all the wine—I have photos to remember it by. I only wish I had recorded the Hakuna Matata (no worries) song. What a great way to end our stay at Mt. Kenya.

Ice cream for all the kids at the rescue center in Nanyuki.

Ice cream for all the kids at the rescue center in Nanyuki.

George the chimp poses for the cameras at the Ol Pejeta Conservancy.

George the chimp poses for the cameras at the Ol Pejeta Conservancy.

A reticulated giraffe.

A reticulated giraffe.

Giraffe eating the acacia tree.

Giraffe eating the acacia tree.

The equator sign in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy.

The equator sign in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy.

The spinners and weavers guild in Nanyuki.

The spinners and weavers guild in Nanyuki.

The kids hold up a Happy Anniversary sign.

The kids hold up a Happy Anniversary sign.

Kids at the rescue center  love the noise makers.

Kids at the rescue center love the noise makers.

The kids on our tour join the kids at the center for a game of soccer.

The kids on our tour join the kids at the center for a game of soccer.

Dad hangs out with the kids and takes some photos with his camera.

Dad hangs out with the kids and takes some photos with his camera.

Watch George entertain our group.

Our next stop was for three wonderful nights at the famous Mt. Kenya Safari Club. Back in the 50’s, actor William Holden bought the club and invited his fancy, shmancy actor friends to join and hang out on the equator with him.

The Safari Club has a brick path down the center of the hotel in a courtyard to mark the equatorial line. When we arrived we were treated to a fun “crossing the line” ceremony where we danced down a carpet with two locals who were dressed in some pretty native costumes while some guy banged on a drum. I have my certificate and an embarrassing movie to keep for all times. After the ceremony, one of the staff members showed us a neat trick with water. First, in the northern hemisphere he poured water in a bowl and we watched how it moved in a clockwise direction down the bowl as it drained. We then walked about 50 yards over to the southern hemisphere and did the same thing—only the water went in a counterclockwise direction. So  I guess the old tale about the toilet water is true! It really was pretty amazing that this phenomenon could be seen in the space of just 50 yards.

After the demonstration we headed over to the animal orphanage on the premises. Mom and I and a few others from our group got to feed some of the animals that were very friendly and just walking around the area. It wasn’t like a zoo—these animals were being treated and cared for and then the plan is to release them back to the wild—at least some of them. Right off the bat, a little duiker (little antelope type animal) walked up to mom looking for some lovin’. Later I realized they were smart enough to know that the humans feed them, so they come looking for the corn pieces. Some funny looking monkeys that I dubbed skunk monkeys for their black bodies and white striped backs, but were in fact called Colobus monkeys, climbed up on my shoulder, then sat on my head and reached to the other hand to grab the food. It was fun—we had a few laughs at their antics.

We also got to see a 150 year old turtle, who evidently was just a teenager. He was massive—mom got to sit on him and take a little ride. I passed for the sake of the turtle. We were told he had a girlfriend who was nearby (and later heard evidence of their courtship). There were several Caracal (I thought they were Lynx) that did not seem to like our guide—they gave him a hiss and the stink eye when he got too close. But others were friendly—like the crowned cranes, the porcupine, the warthog and pig, and some patas monkeys who were in enclosures. The cheetahs ignored us—acting just like cats do and we got to pet an ostrich as well. One new animal for us that we got to feed was the Bongo (another antelope with chestnut coloring and interesting white stripes) who we were told was a very sought after animal years ago. Every zoo wanted one. They are hard to find and very secretive.

Even the plants here were interesting. One was called a bottle brush and it looks rough but was very soft and a vibrant red color. Roses and other varieties of flowers dotted the landscape throughout the grounds.

Finally we saw some little cats. They called them African wild cats but I swear it looked exactly like my tabby May and in fact I looked it up and they sometimes wander into towns and mate with house cats. Hmmm.

Back at the hotel we relaxed in the pool and gazed at Mt. Kenya off in the distance and then dodged some pretty sizable and scary looking marabou storks back to the beautiful rooms with fireplaces. The staff at this hotel must have been bored and in need of something to do because the service was so exceptional and there were so many of them I swear I felt like they were about to actually spoon feed me at one point.

The next day mom, dad and I walked the hotel’s mascot dogs, Tusker and Grammy, around the grounds (they belong to someone but guests can walk them). We took to them immediately seeing as how they were black labs—our kind of dogs. They had a lot of energy—it was hard to say who was walking who, but cute as buttons.

After the dog walk I of course headed to my happy place—the pool. While ordering some cocktails at the bar, the men working there seemed interested if I was going to swim again and hang out today. I thought that was a bit strange until later when I discovered (through the hostess in the restaurant) that “African men like big women.” Ohhhh, that explains it. Creepy, but okay. In any case, they can’t make a Pina Colada for ca-ca, so don’t bother ordering one. But they did serve it with a smile—what a great place to stay!

The equatorial line at the Mount Kenya Safari Club.

The equatorial line at the Mount Kenya Safari Club.

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bottle brush flower

bottle brush flower

Bongo

Bongo

crowned crane

crowned crane

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caracal--he's grumpy.

caracal–he’s grumpy.

mom rides a 150 year old turtle.

mom rides a 150 year old turtle.

the colobus monkey or my new hair style?

the colobus monkey or my new hair style?

mom and dad at the crossing the equator ceremony.

mom and dad at the crossing the equator ceremony.

water flows in one direction or another depending on what hemisphere you're in.

water flows in one direction or another depending on what hemisphere you’re in.

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marabou stork. Scary looking guys who hung around the hotel grounds.

marabou stork. Scary looking guys who hung around the hotel grounds.

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Our first lodgings in Kenya were located in Amboseli National Park which is known for its large elephant herds. We saw plenty of them, some were mucking about in a swamp which was new for me—didn’t know they did that, and others were crossing the great plains eating as they go. Elephants eat about 18 hours a day (or more). They don’t digest all of the food they eat—which is why their poop is very grassy, just in case you wanted to get a good look at it—so they have to eat a lot. Amboseli and the surrounding parks run into a challenge of not having enough foliage and trees to feed the number of elephants roaming about. That’s just one of the challenges they face with the elephants.

Our arrival at the hotel was delayed because we caught site of some wonderful animals on our game drive through the park. We saw a couple of wildebeest chirping at a hyena that just wanted to cool off in the pond. But they wanted him gone so they harassed the hyena into leaving their area. Pretty funny. We were also treated to a few lions who were ambling across the road. One posed very nicely for me as the sun was setting on our game drive.

Poaching and African Dinner Theatre

That evening we had a wonderful lecture from one of the park’s rangers. He informed us about the poaching problem in Africa—how criminals were killing elephants and taking their tusks. In China, ivory is a big seller, so these people smuggle the tusks out of the country but unfortunately leave devastation behind. The African ecological system depends upon the elephants. Some 30 thousand are killed each year in Africa—mostly so that some people in the Far East can use it as an aphrodisiac (so they think) or for jewelry. One thing we can do as individuals is to spread the word that this is an unacceptable practice and to stop the demand for ivory—don’t buy anything made from it.

Now while we were engrossed in the lecture and enjoying the evening breeze, all of the sudden some monkeys (there were a bunch of them hanging about) started to screech loudly and run up the trees near us. The next thing we see is a flash of something run across the field directly in front of us—just yards away from where we were sitting. As we all got up to look across the lawn to the watering hole just beyond, we could see a lion who then skulked away (too much noise from those humans). Sitting there stunned and a bit hurt was a zebra who after checking to see if Mr. Lion had actually left, got up and ran off to be hunted another day (or maybe later that night). Wow. Not every day are you having a happy hour cocktail and listening to a Kenyan ranger when a lion attack happens in front of you. Very cool.

The monkeys then came down and started harassing everyone again per usual. They were black faced monkeys with blue testicles and they would go into your room and steal things if you left the doors open long enough. We were told they get old after three minutes but one of my traveling companions and I agreed that it was taking us longer to get over them; they were in fact fun to watch.

The Masai

In the morning our group went to visit a local Masai village. Our tour director said if you took the stick away from a Masai he’d probably fall over. After seeing hundreds of them throughout our trip, and each and every one carrying a walking/herding stick, I believed him. On our way we saw their herds of donkeys roaming around the swamp nearby. Once out of the jeep and in front of the Boma (the fence they create around their huts), looking at Mount Kilimanjaro in the background, I stopped to pet a cute dog . One of the Masai, John, came over and introduced himself and his dog, Simba, and told us he was the chief. I was duly impressed. The Masai came out and danced and sang a song for us—all decked out in their beautiful wraps and jewelry, and then gathered us for a prayer. Daniel was our guide through the village (they all have western biblical names that are given to them when they start school).

Daniel explained their customs and way of life telling us that their huts are made of cow dung with twig-like roofs. Their doors are short and narrow (they made sure to point that out to me) and it was very dark inside. I found it comical that there was a small little padlock on the door of the hut—the same hut that had twigs in the window and cow poop for walls. Anyway, it was very small and consisted of two “beds” –one for dad and the boys and one for mom and the girls. They had a “kitchen” in the middle which was basically a few rocks where they lit fires. They light their fires with elephant dung—because all that grass in it makes for a good source of fire.

Each of the families had a hut (one hut per wife—the men are allowed more than one wife but must treat them equally, therefore no sharing of huts) with a little back yard. I spotted some girls giggling in the back of one hut and they shared their tiny little puppies with us. I was holding the puppy they named “Toby.”

We got a demonstration of how they bleed their cows by hitting it in the neck with a blunt arrow without killing it. They mix the blood and milk and that is part of their diet. We also were shown some of the herbs and medicines they use; of course they had their own version of Viagra seeing as how the men can take more than one wife.

When the men are ready to marry, his parents get to decide who the lucky lady will be. And since everyone in the Boma is related, they go to another village to find her. The second wife is chosen by the first wife. Some poetic justice in that I suppose. It costs a man about 10-15 cows for a wife. In the Masai world, the more cows you have the richer you are. In the past, the Masai used to steal cattle from other people. Their shoes are rectangular so that when they were stealing cattle, the pursuers wouldn’t know what direction the footsteps were going. Clever little cattle rustlers!

There is a lot more to tell about this group of people. They are the one tribe in the Tanzania and Kenya regions that is still clinging to their traditions and heritage, but that is changing and some speculate that if you return to Africa in 20 years, you may not see a Masai village like this. But who knows, in the future they may still pull out two of their front teeth to identify themselves as Masai (an awful tradition in my opinion). We ended our stay with the Masai by walking through their “market.” They had all their trinkets laid out on blankets and we picked up what we were interested in (or handed by desperate husbands). At the end, my guide James and I went through negotiations. I put a lot of the stuff back, feeling bad after seeing the little babies and knowing they needed the money, but thinking I had enough stuff I didn’t need at all.

The Masai and Amboseli Park were a wonderful treat. Even the baboons who have taken over an abandoned hotel were fun to watch. Some were fighting, some staring at the workmen having lunch in the distance, and some were just hanging out eating and playing. Tauck Tours does a great job of giving their guests a well-rounded experience of the cultures they visit.

Masai woman collecting water at the well outside the Boma (and too close to the swamp).

Masai woman collecting water at the well outside the Boma (and too close to the swamp).

The market at the Masai village

The market at the Masai village

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Inside the Masai hut, our host sits on his bed.

Inside the Masai hut, our host sits on his bed.

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The Masai warriors outside the Boma.

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Our Masai guide James, who probably has a professional job in town and comes back to the village after work.

Simba the dog. Dogs are used by the Masai as guards to warn of carnivores.

Simba the dog. Dogs are used by the Masai as guards to warn of carnivores.

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These monkeys were all over the hotel grounds.

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Elephants returning to their evening resting place.

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These two male elephants are fighting for supremacy.

These two male elephants are fighting for supremacy.

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These baboons watch a fight unfold while the workman in the background have lunch. The workmen probably stay in bunk houses in the old hotel grounds.

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This hyena is alone and being told to "git" by the wildebeest.

This hyena is alone and being told to “git” by the wildebeest.

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This elephant is sitting in the muck of the swamp.

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This guy got really close and passed right in front of us–no care about the humans!

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lions roaming Amboseli Park with Mount Kilimanjaro in the background

lions roaming Amboseli Park with Mount Kilimanjaro in the background

I wrote another post with that title a few years ago but it was appropriate again so I reused it. I used to sing the “I’m going lion hunting” song at camp and it was in my head over and over again as we drove through the Serengeti.

The Serengeti Park is an animal-lover’s paradise; just don’t drive over 60 kph or the ranger speed trap will get you. Our driver assured Mr. Ranger that he couldn’t possibly go that fast on this bumpy highway (I called him on that after we left the police stop, and seeing him zip right past 60 in a hot minute). But back to the game drive—which turned out to be one WOW experience after another.

We set out before dawn to see the animals in action. As we drove through some burnt fields (they burn the fields to keep the grass fresh), the sun began to rise. In Africa, so close to the equator, the sun rises in an instant. It was wonderful to see the orange and pink colors in the horizon and the big ball pop up, poof! A few minutes later we came upon a jackal having breakfast. Now for the most part we can expect and accept the fact that there are carnivores out there and they have to eat. However, the jackal doesn’t make clean kills like the lions do. Nope, we witnessed a brutal, long, repetitive attack. So, moving on…

More eating, but this time we came after the kill. We still got to see part of the zebra floating in the creek, and the crocodile who dined on him was so big in the midsection, he had to sit tight on the bank and hang out while his meal digested a bit. Evidently they stay that way for days and only need to eat big meals like that every six months give or take. That doesn’t mean they won’t kill in between, they just don’t need to.

As we moved slowly along the areas of tall grass, our traveling companion spotted a tail in the distance. Yup, a lion was headed this way. And then a minute later, without warning, her buddy who had been scouting out ahead of the pride made a move that sent a leopard scurrying up the tree right in front of us! Leopard sightings are rare so this was a treat. But hold on folks, it just gets better. Dad spotted another leopard climbing another tree in the distance! Our sweet girl’s hubby was sitting on top of an acacia tree keeping an eye on the pride below. Our girl up front near us slowly climbed higher and higher. Knowing she was capable, I still prayed out loud for her not to fall. These leopards were beautiful and we had the rare privilege of seeing two being chased by a pride of lions. Holy cats, batman! Even our driver guides were excited. After awhile, the lions gave up and left and then we moved on to the next encounter.

Througout the morning we were treated to sightings of a group of giraffe crossing the road, some more hippos (love them hippos), gazelles, waterbucks, topi, more wildebeest, elephants, baboons, zebras, and a group of young male lions. All of those sightings were spectacular—even the colorful birds in the trees and the foliage along the water.

Our final big sighting was a male lion who was resting comfortably (or so he seemed) under the shade of a tree that was located right at a crossroads, which of course attracted lots of jeeps and tourists. I was surprised to see him so close to a hippo pool since we were told they like to avoid the big swimmers. We got to see him up close and his face looked like Rocky Balboas after the Russian kicked his butt. He didn’t seem to mind and I thought he was still very beautiful.

On our way back to the hotel, we drove through a tsetse infected area and were besieged for about 10 minutes. That was the one and only time on the entire trip that we encountered the flies. In fact, after all the hubaloo about insect repellant and nets, covering, and medicine, the reality was that we were just not in areas (except this one) that had any real issues. It could have been the time of the year and also they don’t travel up to the high altitudes where we spent some of our time. In any case, I took my malaria pills faithfully just in case.

In the morning we drove over to the airstrip to take off for Arusha. But before we got there we had a little stop to look at a pair of male lions eating breakfast. It looked like a nice big animal—I got a few shots of one of the lions making off with a leg. Off in the distance with mouths watering were about 14 hyenas. I’m not sure how long the lions got to eat before the hyenas made their move—we didn’t have time to witness that.

Our plane took us over the Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti plains. In the distance the weather cleared (very unusual) for a beautiful view of the top of Mount Kilimanjaro. We arrived in another airstrip in Arusha. These airstrips are really fun—no security, no set schedule, dirt runways—all in all a nice way to travel except for the tiny planes. Off we went to the Cultural Heritage Center to eat lunch and shop. I wish we had more time to explore the artwork and talk to the artists there. But we did manage to shop and instead of the super expensive Tanzanite I wanted to buy, I took home a kitchen magnet and some photos of cool sculptures.

From Arusha we drove over the border and into Kenya. Once again I was photographed and fingerprinted both exiting Tanzania and entering Kenya. They love me, I’m telling you. Through the dirt roads of Kenya we made our way to Amboselli Park and more adventures! Until I can entertain you with the tales of Kenya, rent the movie Out of Africa—I watched it last night for the first time and loved it!

“I had a farm in Africa.” –Out of Africa

Other African Safari posts:

The breakfast of champions.

The breakfast of champions.

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Sunrise on the serengeti

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Mount Kilimanjaro

Cultural Heritage Center. "The big game."

Cultural Heritage Center. “The big game.”

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The hyenas wait there turn (or for enough of them to attack) at a chance at the lion's breakfast.

The hyenas wait their turn (or for enough of them to attack) at a chance at the lion’s breakfast.

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Mr. leopard high atop an acacia.

Mr. leopard high atop an acacia.

Looking for a way out...?

Looking for a way out…?

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Jackal has some breakfast--a poor gazelle.

Jackal has some breakfast–a poor gazelle.

This girl chased the leopard up the tree.

This girl chased the leopard up the tree.

The pride who want the leopard for lunch.

The pride who want the leopard for lunch.

Fat croc digesting a zebra.

Fat croc digesting a zebra.

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Masai giraffe (and their bird friends). A group of them (maybe 6-8) were hanging out near the watering hole and crossed our path.

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