Our next stop was for three wonderful nights at the famous Mt. Kenya Safari Club. Back in the 50’s, actor William Holden bought the club and invited his fancy, shmancy actor friends to join and hang out on the equator with him.

The Safari Club has a brick path down the center of the hotel in a courtyard to mark the equatorial line. When we arrived we were treated to a fun “crossing the line” ceremony where we danced down a carpet with two locals who were dressed in some pretty native costumes while some guy banged on a drum. I have my certificate and an embarrassing movie to keep for all times. After the ceremony, one of the staff members showed us a neat trick with water. First, in the northern hemisphere he poured water in a bowl and we watched how it moved in a clockwise direction down the bowl as it drained. We then walked about 50 yards over to the southern hemisphere and did the same thing—only the water went in a counterclockwise direction. So  I guess the old tale about the toilet water is true! It really was pretty amazing that this phenomenon could be seen in the space of just 50 yards.

After the demonstration we headed over to the animal orphanage on the premises. Mom and I and a few others from our group got to feed some of the animals that were very friendly and just walking around the area. It wasn’t like a zoo—these animals were being treated and cared for and then the plan is to release them back to the wild—at least some of them. Right off the bat, a little duiker (little antelope type animal) walked up to mom looking for some lovin’. Later I realized they were smart enough to know that the humans feed them, so they come looking for the corn pieces. Some funny looking monkeys that I dubbed skunk monkeys for their black bodies and white striped backs, but were in fact called Colobus monkeys, climbed up on my shoulder, then sat on my head and reached to the other hand to grab the food. It was fun—we had a few laughs at their antics.

We also got to see a 150 year old turtle, who evidently was just a teenager. He was massive—mom got to sit on him and take a little ride. I passed for the sake of the turtle. We were told he had a girlfriend who was nearby (and later heard evidence of their courtship). There were several Caracal (I thought they were Lynx) that did not seem to like our guide—they gave him a hiss and the stink eye when he got too close. But others were friendly—like the crowned cranes, the porcupine, the warthog and pig, and some patas monkeys who were in enclosures. The cheetahs ignored us—acting just like cats do and we got to pet an ostrich as well. One new animal for us that we got to feed was the Bongo (another antelope with chestnut coloring and interesting white stripes) who we were told was a very sought after animal years ago. Every zoo wanted one. They are hard to find and very secretive.

Even the plants here were interesting. One was called a bottle brush and it looks rough but was very soft and a vibrant red color. Roses and other varieties of flowers dotted the landscape throughout the grounds.

Finally we saw some little cats. They called them African wild cats but I swear it looked exactly like my tabby May and in fact I looked it up and they sometimes wander into towns and mate with house cats. Hmmm.

Back at the hotel we relaxed in the pool and gazed at Mt. Kenya off in the distance and then dodged some pretty sizable and scary looking marabou storks back to the beautiful rooms with fireplaces. The staff at this hotel must have been bored and in need of something to do because the service was so exceptional and there were so many of them I swear I felt like they were about to actually spoon feed me at one point.

The next day mom, dad and I walked the hotel’s mascot dogs, Tusker and Grammy, around the grounds (they belong to someone but guests can walk them). We took to them immediately seeing as how they were black labs—our kind of dogs. They had a lot of energy—it was hard to say who was walking who, but cute as buttons.

After the dog walk I of course headed to my happy place—the pool. While ordering some cocktails at the bar, the men working there seemed interested if I was going to swim again and hang out today. I thought that was a bit strange until later when I discovered (through the hostess in the restaurant) that “African men like big women.” Ohhhh, that explains it. Creepy, but okay. In any case, they can’t make a Pina Colada for ca-ca, so don’t bother ordering one. But they did serve it with a smile—what a great place to stay!

The equatorial line at the Mount Kenya Safari Club.

The equatorial line at the Mount Kenya Safari Club.

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bottle brush flower

bottle brush flower

Bongo

Bongo

crowned crane

crowned crane

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caracal--he's grumpy.

caracal–he’s grumpy.

mom rides a 150 year old turtle.

mom rides a 150 year old turtle.

the colobus monkey or my new hair style?

the colobus monkey or my new hair style?

mom and dad at the crossing the equator ceremony.

mom and dad at the crossing the equator ceremony.

water flows in one direction or another depending on what hemisphere you're in.

water flows in one direction or another depending on what hemisphere you’re in.

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marabou stork. Scary looking guys who hung around the hotel grounds.

marabou stork. Scary looking guys who hung around the hotel grounds.

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Early to rise  on our next day of the African safari because the animals don’t have A/C and they do their moving, eating, playing, killing, etc. early in the morning and late into the night. Every day our tour director had fun stuff for us to read at our tables and every day as we took advantage of the yummy buffets in these magnificent hotels, we read animal fables, jokes, and histories of where we were going and what we were going to see.

Today was a long game drive, down into the Ngorongoro Crater. From what I’ve read, the Masai named it after the sound their cows’ bells make. (Seriously, this country needs some brand marketing expertise.) This vast dining table for many of Africa’s animals and birds is the largest un-flooded continuous caldera in the world. It spans 12 miles and hosts 30 thousand animals who come to feed and drink and hang out in the lush grassy plain that millions of years ago was the inside of an active volcano. The volcano imploded and I’m pretty sure left its ejected remnants back on that road we took getting up there. Looking around at how big this thing was, I was left in awe of how big that volcano must have been.

The drive down was fun and beautiful trees and flowers dotted the side of the “road.” As we went, we could see across to the other side of the rim, the sun starting to peek through the clouds. One of our first sightings was the warthog. Yes, the warthog—remember Pumbaa from Lion King? This thing looks like a little pig with huge tusks. Actually, it is a pig with big tusks. It’s a funny little thing that leans down on his front wrists when feeding and is so stupid that it will start running at the sound of a predator, then a minute later stop running because it forgot why it was running and consequently will get eaten. But, I will say they made me giggle because they are just so funny looking when the run and hey, how can you not be entertained by a warthog?

Along the road we also saw lots and lots of gazelles (in fact they were pretty much everywhere we went). I surmised they were in such abundance mainly due to the fact that they were dinner for many a predator. There were two kinds, Thompson and Grant gazelles. A difference being in a bit of color here or there. We also saw lots of varieties of the antelope family. One prevalent species was the Impala. You could tell it was an Impala by the “M” on its behind. There were two black stripes that ran down on either side of a black tail forming an “M.” I also told my dad he could look at their eyebrows—the females don’t have horns but do have a uni-brow. (I had to explain that one to him after a few dubious looks.)

The gazelles had lots of grazing buddies and had no problems hanging out with the Cape Breton buffaloes (big huge animals with heads and horns that looked like the kind of hats the Spanish matadors wear). Anyway, they looked like dumb cows to me. In addition, we saw a bunch of flamingos swimming in the big lake in the middle of the crater and a few other birds such as the Crowned crane, quite a beautiful bird, especially when in flight. Another pretty big bird we eyed was the Kori Bustard. The driver guides who were telling us what everything was called had thick accents, so my ongoing joke for the remainder of the trip was, “there’s another bastard at 2 o’clock.”

Also grazing were wildebeests, who were everywhere in various stages of the migration. Wildebeests look like a combination of animals. Our guide today, Steve, told us the story of how they came about. Side note: I asked “Steve” where he got his name and he said it was short for Stephen which then made sense. The Germans had a stake in the area before they got kicked out after losing the war. Now back to the story at hand…When all His creating was done, God realized there were parts left over from all the animals he made. Not one to let something go to waste, He used some stripes from the zebra, a head from a warthog, a neck from a buffalo, the body (or legs at least) of an antelope, and some mane from a lion to create one last animal—the wildebeest. Millions of them migrate throughout Tanzania and Kenya each year and move where the food is.

The big predator in the crater was not the lion, (we did see a few in the far off distance) but the hyena. The hyena is a funny fellow who makes little nesting places (shallow burrows it looked like) and tries to scavenge food when possible. They do in fact attack prey in groups but can be shooed away by larger beasts if alone. We saw a few hanging out by a waterhole and being watched intently by the nearby herds.

Of course the treat for me in this place was seeing the zebras. I’m not quite sure their real purpose on this planet since they can’t be used like horses and donkeys (backs aren’t strong enough) and they don’t seem to be a major source of food for predators (although they are on the diet of crocodiles, big cats, etc. when they get caught off guard), and I’m not sure that they eat anything that needs to be eaten. They are pretty to look at though. And they are pretty smart. They stand in unique positions when grazing so that predators can’t quite tell how many of them are in a group. They like to confuse others with their stripes and stand head to tail to keep watch (and I think to help bat away flies with the tails). They are known to lead the wildebeests to the big rivers to cross, then back off and let them go first (to get eaten by the crocs). The young ones are brownish and each zebra’s stripes are unique (like snowflakes). Now that’s God’s artistic work—especially when you see herds of them all over the place. Beautiful creatures, yes.

The drive continues as we spot a group of jeeps in one area—always a sign of something cool to see. So we ride on over to where the hippos are all hanging out. This was my first close-up view of them in the water and I loved it! Ladies and gentlemen, here is an animal who hangs out most of the day just floating in water. It doesn’t intentionally hurt people or animals, it just keeps to itself, letting birds hang out on their backs, rolling around in the muck…ah the life. Now if you mess with one of them or get between them and where they want to be, then watch out, because they can turn into mean S.O.B.s in a hot second. There are more humans killed by hippos in Africa than by any other animal. I still like them. When I win the lottery and build my personal lazy river, I’m going to install hippo art along the river as a reminder of my new friends.

So now off to lunch. But where to have lunch in a place like a crater filled with wild animals? Eric the tour director teased us beforehand by “ordering” lame sandwiches for a quick and dirty lunch when in fact they actually put out quite a first-rate picnic for us in the bush. Table cloths and real silverware with tasty barbecued chicken and rice went well with our African beer and wine. We dined under some yellow acacia trees—called yellow fever trees. When early pioneers came to Africa, they camped out under these trees (which grow near swamps filled with mosquitoes) and contracted yellow fever. They blamed the trees at first (brilliant), so hence the name.

After lunch we drove through the other side of the crater seeing more herds moving about and some colorful birds. Up and up through the beautiful acacias onto a hellishly bumpy road, we circled back around the rim to paradise—our hotel at the top of Ngorongoro. We ended the night with a nice reception and dinner with our fellow Tauck traveling family. And to put a nice touch on the end of a day of adventure, the hotel put hot water bottles in our beds at turn down. After a minor freak out at what was lurking in my sheets, I sank into happiness and bliss. Next stop—the Serengeti!

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The beautiful zebra, each with its own unique pattern.

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“…I will survive, I got all my life to live, I got all my love to give, I’ll survive, I will survive, hey hey….”

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Rollin, rollin, rollin, keep that hippo rollin…weeeee!

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Kori Bustard (there’s goes another bastard) bird

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The female ostrich blends into the daylight scenery for camouflage when nesting. Males are dark for blending in when they guard the nest at night.

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A herd of wildebeest roaming the plains of the Ngorongoro Crater. Just some of the millions that migrate each year.

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“I’ve…almost…got..it. Man this things been stuck in my ear since the Mara.”

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“We see you hyena dudes. Keep walking, that’s it, just keep walking…”

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A Crater grazers committee meeting roll call: “Okay, um, wildebeests?” “Present.” “Gazelles?” “Here!” “Hippos?” “We’re over here!” “Flamingos?” “Yup, present.” “Zebras? Hey, where are the zebras and who’s watching the hyenas?”

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Hyena watches us from his resting place.

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Just out for a stroll–hyena

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Gazelles are not sure what to make of our jeep.

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Mr. Warthog.

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More zebra!

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The Cape Breton buffalo. Or what I like to call the cow matador.

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A view of the salt lake in the crater as we make our way down the rim.

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Another beautiful view of the crater rim and valley.

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Lunch in the bush, done Tauck Tours style.

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Masai tribe members dance and sing for us (and jump high to show their prowess).