I wrote another post with that title a few years ago but it was appropriate again so I reused it. I used to sing the “I’m going lion hunting” song at camp and it was in my head over and over again as we drove through the Serengeti.

The Serengeti Park is an animal-lover’s paradise; just don’t drive over 60 kph or the ranger speed trap will get you. Our driver assured Mr. Ranger that he couldn’t possibly go that fast on this bumpy highway (I called him on that after we left the police stop, and seeing him zip right past 60 in a hot minute). But back to the game drive—which turned out to be one WOW experience after another.

We set out before dawn to see the animals in action. As we drove through some burnt fields (they burn the fields to keep the grass fresh), the sun began to rise. In Africa, so close to the equator, the sun rises in an instant. It was wonderful to see the orange and pink colors in the horizon and the big ball pop up, poof! A few minutes later we came upon a jackal having breakfast. Now for the most part we can expect and accept the fact that there are carnivores out there and they have to eat. However, the jackal doesn’t make clean kills like the lions do. Nope, we witnessed a brutal, long, repetitive attack. So, moving on…

More eating, but this time we came after the kill. We still got to see part of the zebra floating in the creek, and the crocodile who dined on him was so big in the midsection, he had to sit tight on the bank and hang out while his meal digested a bit. Evidently they stay that way for days and only need to eat big meals like that every six months give or take. That doesn’t mean they won’t kill in between, they just don’t need to.

As we moved slowly along the areas of tall grass, our traveling companion spotted a tail in the distance. Yup, a lion was headed this way. And then a minute later, without warning, her buddy who had been scouting out ahead of the pride made a move that sent a leopard scurrying up the tree right in front of us! Leopard sightings are rare so this was a treat. But hold on folks, it just gets better. Dad spotted another leopard climbing another tree in the distance! Our sweet girl’s hubby was sitting on top of an acacia tree keeping an eye on the pride below. Our girl up front near us slowly climbed higher and higher. Knowing she was capable, I still prayed out loud for her not to fall. These leopards were beautiful and we had the rare privilege of seeing two being chased by a pride of lions. Holy cats, batman! Even our driver guides were excited. After awhile, the lions gave up and left and then we moved on to the next encounter.

Througout the morning we were treated to sightings of a group of giraffe crossing the road, some more hippos (love them hippos), gazelles, waterbucks, topi, more wildebeest, elephants, baboons, zebras, and a group of young male lions. All of those sightings were spectacular—even the colorful birds in the trees and the foliage along the water.

Our final big sighting was a male lion who was resting comfortably (or so he seemed) under the shade of a tree that was located right at a crossroads, which of course attracted lots of jeeps and tourists. I was surprised to see him so close to a hippo pool since we were told they like to avoid the big swimmers. We got to see him up close and his face looked like Rocky Balboas after the Russian kicked his butt. He didn’t seem to mind and I thought he was still very beautiful.

On our way back to the hotel, we drove through a tsetse infected area and were besieged for about 10 minutes. That was the one and only time on the entire trip that we encountered the flies. In fact, after all the hubaloo about insect repellant and nets, covering, and medicine, the reality was that we were just not in areas (except this one) that had any real issues. It could have been the time of the year and also they don’t travel up to the high altitudes where we spent some of our time. In any case, I took my malaria pills faithfully just in case.

In the morning we drove over to the airstrip to take off for Arusha. But before we got there we had a little stop to look at a pair of male lions eating breakfast. It looked like a nice big animal—I got a few shots of one of the lions making off with a leg. Off in the distance with mouths watering were about 14 hyenas. I’m not sure how long the lions got to eat before the hyenas made their move—we didn’t have time to witness that.

Our plane took us over the Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti plains. In the distance the weather cleared (very unusual) for a beautiful view of the top of Mount Kilimanjaro. We arrived in another airstrip in Arusha. These airstrips are really fun—no security, no set schedule, dirt runways—all in all a nice way to travel except for the tiny planes. Off we went to the Cultural Heritage Center to eat lunch and shop. I wish we had more time to explore the artwork and talk to the artists there. But we did manage to shop and instead of the super expensive Tanzanite I wanted to buy, I took home a kitchen magnet and some photos of cool sculptures.

From Arusha we drove over the border and into Kenya. Once again I was photographed and fingerprinted both exiting Tanzania and entering Kenya. They love me, I’m telling you. Through the dirt roads of Kenya we made our way to Amboselli Park and more adventures! Until I can entertain you with the tales of Kenya, rent the movie Out of Africa—I watched it last night for the first time and loved it!

“I had a farm in Africa.” –Out of Africa

Other African Safari posts:

The breakfast of champions.

The breakfast of champions.

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Sunrise on the serengeti

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Mount Kilimanjaro

Cultural Heritage Center. "The big game."

Cultural Heritage Center. “The big game.”

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The hyenas wait there turn (or for enough of them to attack) at a chance at the lion's breakfast.

The hyenas wait their turn (or for enough of them to attack) at a chance at the lion’s breakfast.

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Mr. leopard high atop an acacia.

Mr. leopard high atop an acacia.

Looking for a way out...?

Looking for a way out…?

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Jackal has some breakfast--a poor gazelle.

Jackal has some breakfast–a poor gazelle.

This girl chased the leopard up the tree.

This girl chased the leopard up the tree.

The pride who want the leopard for lunch.

The pride who want the leopard for lunch.

Fat croc digesting a zebra.

Fat croc digesting a zebra.

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Masai giraffe (and their bird friends). A group of them (maybe 6-8) were hanging out near the watering hole and crossed our path.

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Day four of the safari itinerary had us stopping off for a bit of culture as well as archaeology and “history.” I put that in quotes because the theories on how old mankind is and our origins are a source of hot debate.

But first things first. Just out of the hotel area we stopped off at the local school that was created to serve the Masai children living in the area. The government has made school mandatory and while more and more kids are going, still some little guys can be seen by the road during the day begging tourist jeeps for money while they tend the cattle. We were very impressed with kids and the school. Remember hearing your parents tell you how they used to walk a mile uphill in the snow to get to school? Well these kids literally walk up to two hours each way (with wildlife walking about by the way). They show up in uniforms, share books and supplies, and cram into benches. They were very well-mannered, smart, and had the most amazing smiles. We spent a few minutes with them letting them take pictures with our cameras (they loved seeing their images in the LCD screen) and then I spent a few minutes trying to figure out what buttons they pushed and how to undo the new settings on the menu. There’s no A/C or heat (it does get cold up in that altitude) and only a few toilets for hundreds of people. They need food, supplies, transportation, toilets, and more. Education has been very effective in helping these folks become healthier and it gives them some hope to live beyond poverty. Tauck Tours gives back to the places they visit and schools like this one are one of the beneficiaries of their goodwill.

The Origins of Mankind?

Now, after singing goodbye with the kids, we were off to visit the Oldapai Gorge where the famous archaeologists, Louis and Mary Leakey made some remarkable discoveries, including what is believed to be the remains of the earliest known hominid. A fun side-note where we can laugh at white people for a minute. The Germans came to the area and mispronounced Oldapai and called it Oldavai so the name has been promoted and pronounced wrong for decades. Oldapai is the Masai name for the Sisel plant that grows in the area. Whatever the official name is, the local dudes selling wood carvings of giraffes and hippos told me to call it Oldapai.

The area is an archaeologist’s dream because of the erosion of the distinct layers in the ground. Over millions of years these layers changed due to conditions of the earth at the time and some left really awesome fossil evidence including some footsteps taken by early men.

Giraffes Necking

After checking out some bones and the scenery and learning about the less than stellar character of  Louis Leakey, we got into the jeep and Pascal, our driver for the day, took us out past some giraffes who were “necking.” It’s not what you think—in the case of giraffes, necking is when two males are battling for supremacy in the giraffe kind of way which of course being males would involve their egos and most prominent part of their body, their necks. They will slap each other neck-to-neck and sway their heads and necks around until one of them gives up. It was pretty cool to see. A little biology lesson here, the giraffes feed on the Acacia trees which have these spikes on their branches. The giraffes however, have these wonderful tongues that can maneuver between the spikes to get at the food on the leaves they need to eat. Now, as another defense, some of these trees can give off a yucky smell or taste making the giraffe move on to another tree to complete its meal.

I keep saying how all of these animals are beautiful and it is true—each one having a grace about them in their unique movements, behavior, coloring, they way walk or run, communicate, eat and survive in the wild. Something you can’t really get from a zoo.

Paying the Right Price and the Highway to Hell

Eric told us when bargain shopping in Africa (which is how you have to shop—no set prices), the price you end up paying for whatever souvenir crap you’re buying is the right price. Even if the teenager next to you got a spear for $5 less because “she is baby and got a special discount.” If you want something and are willing to pay for it, then that is the market balancing at a very micro economic level. And really, these are very poor people so anything you buy is helping these folks feed their families. With that philosophy in mind, Pascal chose a path of his own—the right path—to get us onto the famous “Serengeti Highway.”

When Eric our tour director told us this was a very busy highway, I expected some pavement, lines, etc. Poor Dawn, still thinks like a westerner after days of being in Africa…she should know better. The “highway” was busy for sure—with buses and trucks going about 30 miles an hour and dust clouding the view ahead. After miles and miles and endless plains with Masai kids grazing their cattle and gazelles lining the fields all around, we came to the Serengeti gate. There are no guards or anything, just a sign over the road letting you know that you are now entering the Park. The Masai were allowed in the conservation area leading up to the park, but in the National Park humans were only allowed to visit. We stopped for some photo ops and continued onto a game drive through the park. This place was filled with species of animals and birds I’ve never heard of before. So let’s begin.

Serengeti Sightings Included:

  • A cheetah drinking from a watering hole. The first one I’ve seen and she was beautiful. The teardrop eyes looked at us and around her as she kept watch for other predators before slinking off.
  • Toppi—a kind of antelope that is brown with dark patches. We began to these guys a lot throughout the trip.
  • More Impalas. The women hang out together with one male who protect them. The other males hang out in bachelor herds and wait their turn to challenge the guy with the girls. It’s tough keeping up that kind of pressure, so the males do find themselves alone for a bit after being ousted.
  • Hartebeest—another kind of antelope I think. This one is lighter than the Toppi and Wildebeest.
  • Agama lizard—a lizard with bright orange (or red) coloring on his head.
  • Lots of Grant gazelles peeking up from the long grass to make sure Mr. Lion wasn’t lurking about.
  • Superb Starlings—beautifully colored birds that look shiny in the sun. These guys were seen a lot in our lunch areas.
  • Mongoose—little guys who are rodent-like but for some reason didn’t gross me out as they ran under my bench while eating lunch at the rest area.
  • Dik Diks—the tiniest of the antelope family (I think) and very cute. This little guy (see below) was hanging out getting some shade and watching for predators.
  • Baboons, giraffes, zebras, wildebeests, storks, and buzzards also filled the bill. We were becoming blasé about these guys already!

Elephants and the Glorious Four Seasons

One big stop before we headed off to the most amazing hotel was to view a family of elephants. Mama kept a close eye out on her little ones while the teenage boys trunk wrestled off in the distance. As the family moved, taking down a small tree in its path, it crossed the road in front of us. We must have been making too much noise because mama stopped right in front of our jeep and turned her head to stare us down. I gave a little jump when she snorted at us but was immensely relieved when she moved on. A little warning goes a long way when a four- ton beast gives you the stink eye.

On to the Four Seasons and a second day in the Serengeti National Park. What can you say about a Four Seasons that is planted in the middle of the Serengeti and has a year-round, clean, reliable waterhole directly in front of the pool and your gigantic rooms? From the moment we got there, baboons, antelope, zebra, gazelles and more took turns coming up to the pool for a drink. We had the most amazing show put on by a massive group of elephants who came up to swim, drink, eat and cool off at the pool right before sundown. Here is a video of just a few minutes of the show. It’s very hard to communicate how marvelous it was to sit on my balcony and take it all in. Some of the elephants had little spats and were chasing each other, others were spraying mud on themselves with their trunks and feet (to keep cool I guess), still others were pushing their young here and there keeping order, and all were taking turns lapping up the delicious clean water filtered into the hole by the hotel’s water system. Truly breathtaking and a great way to end the day!

A male lion hangs out under a tree in the shade while the noon sun blazes.

A male lion hangs out under a tree in the shade while the noon sun blazes.

Masai school

Kids take pictures with our cameras at the Masai school

Dik Dik

Dik Dik is a really little guy.

Elephants at watering hole

Dad pushes the family into the water with a head butt.

nursing elephant

Baby elephant nurses while Mama hangs out at the watering hole.

Serengeti gate

The Serengeti gate on the “highway.”

Giraffes in the Serengeti

Giraffes roaming the Serengeti. Beautiful animals walked around our jeeps looking for trees to nibble.

Toppi is a kind of antelope.

Toppi is a kind of antelope.

The elephants were very close to the pool and right outside our rooms.

The elephants were very close to the pool and right outside our rooms.

Elephants at the watering hole right before sunset cast wonderful shadows.

Elephants at the watering hole right before sunset cast wonderful shadows.

Watch a video of the elephants by the watering hole.